Yesterday I went to a bridal shower all the way up near Keene, NH in the middle of nowhere, and one of the girls there had the same feather hair extensions. So in about 3 weeks, the trend moved from NYC to farm-town. Is that possible? Or did the trend start somewhere else and we are just as late on it than the rest of the world. Are trends even worth following?
I wrote a paper in one of my college English courses on the evolution of fashion and how trends used to take half a century to come back around, and then every decade trends would come back, and then every year, and now, trends are ever changing and evolving and coming back. This spring its all about the seventies, but I swear the seventies were in less than 5 years ago. Elements from every notable decade are evident in fashion today, and they will be there tomorrow, and beyond. Remember in the '90s we would imagine space-age clothes with all the metallic, hello Lady Gaga.
I've decided to post that english paper here in case anyone has the time to read a 15 page paper on the evolution of fashion. Or if anyone has a term paper to write and they just want to borrow mine, I think I got an A- on it. Although, I warn you that it is now published on the internet and your professor will figure it out very quickly, and there is a possibility of expulsion and all that. Anywhooo, check it out if you have the time and are curious about how quickly fashion is now changing. It might make you think twice before buying those $50 lace up booties that you'll probably wear for 2 months.
Michelle Berman
RPW 111
May 4, 2009
Final Paper
The Evolution of Clothing in America 1950-2009
Fashion goes through phases. A few new pieces are introduced but most of what we wear was designed decades ago. What teenagers see as a new fashion trend, their parents see a similar trend to what they wore in high school. Clothing, to many, is much more than something to hide you personal body parts, and to keep you warm in winter months. Clothing is a statement which at times may be political, and is a way of self-expression. Many people judge others on what shirt is on their back. It is natural to befriend those who look like you and have the same clothes on that you do. Fashion is a means of fitting in and standing out.
"Curiously, World War II provides an opportunity for American designers (and designers working in America) to show their colors. With the Paris fashion world in limbo, Pauline Trigere flees Paris and opens a house in New York where she makes crisp, tailored, classic clothes and pioneers the wool evening dress." (Schnurnberger, 363) The post-war '50s is a time where women begin to have their own fashion identities. Females begin to emerge out of the 'Stepford Wife' and into fashion trends.
"Hair in the 50's was long and put up in a chignon (a bun) or a ponytail but some chose the short urchin cut. The Beehive, achieved by backcombing and heavy hairspray, was another favorite hairstyle" (Utah Education Network) Hairstyles are a big part of fashion at any given time.
"Norman Norell, who once designed movie costumes for Gloria Swanson, is hailed for the chemise, dolman sleeves, and glittery drop-dead all-sequined sheath dresses, still popular today." (Schnurnberger, 363) The chemise is later redesigned by Christian Dior and given the nickname of a 'sack dress.' Dior's version is more widely accepted. The sack dress allows women to breathe, no longer bound by corsets and the increasing pressure to have a small waist. This does not take off in the early '50s because a small waist is still viewed as the most flattering. By the mid to late '50s, women go against what is suggested by society and only then does the sack dress become popular. "Charles James is best remembered for his lavish sculpted evening gowns, he also designs culottes for Lord & Taylor in 1932 that are still being sold in the '50s." (Schnurnberger, 363) James' designs are similar to prom dresses and wedding gowns repeated in the late 1990s.
Claire McCardell was known for inventing the "American Sportswear." McCardell is noted as a designer who truly helped push women into becoming fashionistas. Claire McCardell was quoted saying, "A housewife can look lovely!" (Schnurnberger, 364) "The American Look" is a way of dressing characterized by comfort, freedom of movement, and high style, all of which are things women were not accustomed to having. "Using denim, gingham, and new fabrics like wool jersey, McCardell creates easy-fitting, bias-cut (on the diagonal, flair, full skirt) with an eye for detail: patch pockets, visible hooks, double stitching and deep armholes."
(Schnurnberger, 364) Bias cut means the fabric is cut on the diagonal which is more expensive because it uses only part of the yardage of fabric and the other part is wasted. This cut is used in dresses and skirts.
Her "popover," a wrap-around denim dress (later resurrected by Diane von Furstenberg), is designed as something women can wear to do housework and still look smart. It costed $6.95 in the 1940s and 75,000 sold in the first year but this style remained popular for throughout the following decade. On May 2, 1955, McCardell is pictured on the cover of Time magazine as the innovator of casual, American separates. She was the first fashion designer to be so honored and only two, Dior and Gernreich have been pictured since. (Schnurnberger, 364) This was a big recognition for a female designer of that time. Also, it shows just how much inflation has changed the cost of clothing over time. It would be close to impossible to find a new dress at a price of $6.95 in the United States today.
The fifties was an era where the population was very influenced by the fashions of their favorite stars. "By 1960 there are 85 million TV sets in the U.S." (Schnurnberger, 368) It is easy to see why the fashions on television were picked up by those watching. "'Funny Face' Audrey Hepburn exudes '50s innocence, while a racy Marilyn Monroe (Norma Jean Baker) reminds us that 'Some Like It Hot.' Elvis [wore] tight pants with a greasy 'duck tail' haircut. In 1957 Pat Boone sings 'Love Letters in the Sand' and teenagers throughout America swoon over his clean-cut good looks. His trademark is his white bucks, a symbol of purity and innocence." (Schnurnberger, 368) White bucks are white shoes with a rubber sole and laces, fancier than tennis shoes. Men had their white bucks, but what did women have? "After the clunky wedges of World War II, women crave more feminine shoes. In 1952, Italian designer Ferragamo introduces stiletto heels." (Schnurnberger, 371)These fashions were all popular during the '50s.
"In 1957, elegantly presented by Balenciaga and Dior the chemise, or sack shape takes hold. For the first time in one hundred and fifty years, women don't have to watch their waistlines." (Schnurnberger, 373) This is contrary to the 'Ideal Weight.' Although women had a dress to hide their natural waistline, it was still not widely accepted to be anything more than thin.
The first "Ideal Weight" charts were published in Metropolitan Life Insurance Company in 1942. Before that weight was not viewed as so important, as society became more health-conscious, the standards at which women had to measure up to became increasingly thin. In 1959 if you were 5'4" with 2" heels on, because thats what was expected of women, between the ages of 18-25, and subtract one pound per year under 25, you should be 108-116 pounds with a small frame, 113-126 with a medium frame, and 121-138 with a large frame. In 1989, the height did not include the 2" heel, simply your natural height because the 2" heel was no longer a necessity for women to wear by 1989. At 5'2", which is what the same person would be, 108-121 pounds with a small frame, 118-132 with a medium frame, and 128-143 with a large frame. (Schnurnberger, 365) As time went on, females were not expected to be as thin.
Fashion, for the general population reflected these statistics. In 1959, the chemise, or sack dress was out of fashion. "Dior opens his new collection in 1947 with the controversial 'New Look.' Dior makes variations on the coolie hat, to be worn with wide skirts with nipped-in waists. But by 1955 he introduces the still popular A line." (Schnurnberger, 366) When the Ideal Weight charts were release society flocked back to putting pressure on women to be thin. "Cheryl Tiegs, a cover-girl and famous supermodel, weighed much less than these charts as well as other models who possessed the haute couture look." (Schnurnberger, 366)
There are differences in the types of fashion designers create. There is haute couture, avant-garde and ready-to-wear. Haute couture, or in French, High Fashion, are hand made, one of a kind pieces which are usually made of expensive high quality fabrics. These pieces are often not what would be worn on an everyday basis. Avant-garde is artwork in the form of clothing. These pieces are noted as "out there" and they usually are meant only as a piece of artwork on a body, not to be worn other than on the runway. It is to show the creative genius of the designer. Ready-to-wear fashions are for everyday wear. They go straight from the runway to department stores to your closet.
Dior invents the 'model walk,' in which the mannequin is arched with her back tilted and her chin high, giving her stance a certain arrogance. He is also credited with re-establishing Paris as a fashion power base after World War II." (Schnurnberger, 366) This model walk is still used on the catwalks of top designers in New York, London, Paris and other fashion capitals around the world today.
Body enhancers such as a corset, are also part of the fashion during any given period. "In 1958, Sears advertised "Scientifically Designed Post-Operative Bras." (Gardner, 313) These had inserts for females post-mastectomy to look like natural breasts. "In postwar years sexual allure and desire were celebrated as key attributes of the normal female psyche." (Gardner, 314) Inserts became not only for cancer or accident survivors, but for females who wished to enhance their figure. The appeal of large breasts was not new, but scientists were creating new ways of achieving a fuller chest. "Silicone could be found in war machinery, proved useful as a cleaning material, and made a wonderful caulking substance. Other random by-products of silicone included the creation of Silly Putty...By the 1950s, Americans were experimenting with silicone and breast augmentation, and the press reported stories of silicone injections and larger breast sizes." (Gardner, 318-319) In the 21st century, Hollywood has put a large amount of pressure on females to have breast augmentations in order to fit into society. Silicone implants are now the newest accessory in fashion.
"In 1959 charismatic revolutionary Fidel Castro liberates Cuba and popularizes army fatigues." (Schnurnberger, 374) Again, this fashion is seen re-emerging several times throughout the following decades. Some military styles were on the runways this past season. It may be a trend that when our nation is at war, we see fit to dress like militia.
The late fifties and early sixties brought clothing into rock and roll music. Many songs began talking about fashion such as, "Black Denim Trousers," by The Cheers in 1955 or "Cowboy Boots," by Dave Dudley in 1963, and "Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini," by Brian Hyland in 1960. (Schnurnberger, 375) Many more were on radios including the famous "Don't Step on My Blue Swede Shoes," by Elvis. The fashions that these rock-n-rollers wore were viewed on television and then replicated by teenie boppers all across America. "Black leather jackets for the Elvis teen crowd were contrasted by the beaded evening sweaters." (Utah Education Network) Both were worn in the late '50s.
Each decade was influenced by icons in the media. The '60's had Jackie Kennedy. "The public embraces the young, fresh styles of Jackie Kennedy. Her greatest contribution to the early '60s: the pillbox hat and the bouffant hairstyle." (Schnurnberger, 376) These styles have been revisited several times from the '70s to today when a woman wants to look professional and empowered but still remain feminine. The movie, "Legally Blonde 2," shows the lead character in a pill box hat and Jackie Kennedy inspired ensemble as she heads to Washington D.C. to fight for animal rights.
Space age clothes resulted from the walk on the moon. (Utah Education Network) Pierre Cardin and Andre Courreges are dubbed 'space age' designers in the mid-sixties. Courreges is known for square-toed, calf-length white boot and knitted, long sleeved one-piece catsuits. He also creates uncluttered, futuristic fashions- stark cut-out dresses worn with helmet-shaped hats. Cardin makes a name for himself with batwing jumpsuits, necklines that plunge to the navel, more helmets, thigh-high hemlines, and body-stockings. (Schnurnberger, 377) Twiggy is a model and fashion icon of the sixties with her skinny frame, short hair, and short dresses. The white go-go boots are a staple in the closet of every '60s fashion trend follower.
"The hippie culture didn't care much about fashion but the looser and more casual look in fashion reflected the hippy clothing... The unisex look was influenced by the hippie culture. Underwear, too, influenced by the hippie culture, was minimal. The stretch bra was more comfortable with no seams or shaping. Colored or natural colored tights replaced nylon stockings for some. Pantyhose came into being because of the very short mini-skirt. Garter belts wouldn't work with such short skirts. The Beattles started a revolution in hairstyles with their collar length hair following the "butch" for men in the 50's. Faded, ragged jeans did not mean you were too poor, it meant you were in style. (Utah Education Network) Many things changed during the hippie era. Unisex clothing, such as jeans and tee-shirts, came into fashion and continues to prevail. Sports bras are a direct result of the loose, carefree way of the hippies. Ripped jeans became popular, and they also had a resurgence in the early 21st century. the ripped jeans that were popular in the '60s were usually ripped by the purchaser. The change in the 21st century, is that stores now sell pre-ripped jeans with holes and bleach stains. Some, understandably, refuse to purchase tattered garments.
"The Afro originated in the United States as a style worn by a tiny minority of cosmopolitan black women, and developed as a prominent symbol of racial pride in the mid-1960s. Responding to the Afro's grassroots popularity, the African-American beauty culture industry mounted a largely successful effort to transform the style from political statement to fashion commodity...the Afro, or 'natural' as it was called early on, appeared as an American hairstyle years before the Black Power movement emerged. The earliest female Afro wearers came from the fringes of African-American society Avant-garde artists, intellectuals, and elite urban trendsetters began wearing their hair short and unprocessed as early as the late 1950s." (Walker, 255) It really began to go mainstream in the '60s and continued through some of the '70s. A hairstyle can be under the category of fashion because it follows a trend and hair can often be used as an accessory and the appearance of one's hair often tells just as much about the person's sense of style as an outfit can. It is not until 1974, however, when the first black female model appears on the cover of a fashion magazine. (Holdt)
"In 1965 Seventeen magazine reports that teenage girls in America, who represent 11 percent of the population, purchase 20 percent of all apparel and 23 percent of all cosmetics sold in the country. They buy 72 million hosiery items, over 6 million pieces of costume jewelry, and 4 million belts." (Schnurnberger, 380) Accessories become a big thing during the '60s. No more one strand of pearl necklaces. Shopping Malls explode across the country after World War II. At first they were outdoor malls which included a grocery store, a department store and maybe a shoe store. The first indoor shopping mall was built in 1956. The malls as we know them today were being built all across America in the early '70s. (Schnurnberger, 400) The availability of clothing changes with the addition of these malls. Fashion trends are much easier to follow and the retail market racks up top dollar.
The early seventies were the lift off for retail's flight to the top of where American's spend their money. "In 1976, Jean Baudrillard said 'fashion is the central logic of our "consumer society," "the most superficial game and the most profound social form-the inexorable investment of all domains by the code.'" (Kondo, 109) Fashion had become a waste of money to some people, but to others, clothing fills voids, makes them happier, allows one to fit into a group and have a sense of belonging, and this, to some, is worth any cost.
"In response to the severe Courreges lines of clothes in the '60s, in the early '70s there's an Edwardian revival, complete with lacy blouses, high, frilly necklines, and cameos. The fashion with legs the next season however, is hot pants- thigh-high shorts. By the late '70s and early '80s, they re-emerge as popular styles." (Schnurnberger, 392) The short Edwardian trend goes away swiftly and is not remembered much due to the great sex appeal and fun associated with the hot pants and tight fitted garments that debut shortly after.
During the early seventies, it is the first time you see designer names on clothing. "Designer labels adorned the outside of clothing." (Utah Education Network) Nike put their "Swoosh" on sneakers in 1972. (Holdt)
Short hair styles were in during the '60s. "Hair began to get longer again in the 1970's. The most memorable fashion statement of the 1970's may be the Bell Bottom pants. They were all over the fashion world. These pants were so popular that even men were wearing them too." (Suuya) Bell bottoms also had a quick comeback in the late '90s.
In 1974, Nixon resigns from the presidency and Punk Funk becomes all the rage. This may be due to a political out lash of the youth in which they go against what is considered normal in society. It is a peaceful solution to make a statement only by the clothes you wear and the color of your hair. "Basic black is the mainstay of the punk uniform- accented by Mohawk haircuts in startling pink, florescent green, or purple. Of course, to avoid hair coloring decisions, some 'punkers' simply shave their heads. Their most important accessories come in metal- spikes and studs, heavy crosses, bracelets, and several pairs of earrings worn in one lobe, chain belts, and safety pins stuck through their noses. By 1980, the punk look had 'crossed-over' into popular culture." (Schnurnberger, 394) The punk look continues in and out of fashion for brief periods of time during the '80s, '90s and the start of the 21st century.
Occasionally, when celebrating something of the past, it is appropriate to dress as they did during the event in which you are celebrating. "1976 was the Bi-Centennial of America. Maxi-length skirts were appropriate for the celebrations of the past and appeared in the everyday fashion catalogues. Above the knee skirts were also acceptable. Polyester was the carefree fabric of the decade and was used for leisure suits for men and pantsuits for women." (Utah Education Network) Polyester now comes with a negative connotation because it is a fairly cheap fabric and elites and haute couture designers refuse to work with it. However, it is still used today by many American brands.
In 1977, with the release of 'Grease,' the rock-n-roll fashions of the late '50s had a brief revival. (Schnurnberger, 391) The late seventies was a time where music was changing and fashion was as well. In 1978 Saturday night fever rages. The dance fever look, complete with shimmery spandex leotards, sequined wrap-around skirts, glittery eye makeup and disco bags. (Schnurnberger, 398)
"The work of the avant-garde designers enacts oppositional gestures to convention: contesting the boundaries between fashion and art, challenging the conventions about what counts as clothing, rethinking the relationship between form and function and the relationship between garments and gendered, raced bodies, refiguring the beautiful, enlarging possibilities for enacting gender, and subverting the gender binary." (Kondo, 105) Avant-garde designers start in Japan but have made their way well into American fashion by the '80s
The late '70s and early '80s was a time where T-shirts took off, and they are still popular today, without having much of a decline in popular culture at all over the past thirty years. In 1983 Karl Lagerfeld takes helm at Chanel with his shorter skirts, re-designed versions of the classic jacket, baroque jewelry, and mix of T-shirt chic and couture. Also, time-honored Swiss watchmakers make Swatch the watch of the moment. (Schnurnberger, 405) Chanel and Swatch are also still prevalent brands.
"In 1984, singing superstar Madonna markets her look. Would-be 'wannabes' can buy lace tank tops, rolled tube tops, tight skirts, and black elbow-length fingerless gloves. The accessories of the time were gobs of jewelry, and spiked heels. 1986, a Marilyn Monroe revival comes back with red lipstick, tight dresses, and sleek blond hair." (Schnurnberger, 406) Madonna was also known for her religious necklaces, which have now become popular in Hip-hop culture. Marilyn Monroe's hairstyles and red lipstick have come back into fashion repeatedly. Many of the stars on the red carpet in the 21st century don Monroe's signature golden locks curled and pinned up as well as similar gowns and makeup that she wore.
Another look that was popular during the eighties was the work-out look. This included, off-the-shoulder sweatshirts, leg warmers, and sweatbands. "Exercise clothing like leotards for working out and expensive running shoes pervaded the market" (Utah Education Network) A common eighties hairstyle was the side ponytail, also big hair was in and many women permed (permanently chemically curled or waved) their hair.
Pearls have been a symbol of wealth and beauty for centuries. "In 1988, Barbara Bush is noted for her three strand pearl necklaces, and fake ones become popular with women." (Schnurnberger, 410) Again, this trend is one that repeats in the fashion world very frequently.
The late eighties and early nineties had parachute pants, white washed jeans, neon colors, and fanny packs. "Bicycle caps, Day-Glo Spandex bicycle shorts and tied-around-the-waist bicycle messenger pouches [fanny-packs] ride onto the fashion scene in 1988. By 1989, these street-inspired fashions have made their way into Lacroix, Rykiel, and even Chanel's spring collections." (Schnurnberger, 411)
In 1992, the Mall of America was built. As the largest mall in America, it covers 78 acres and is 4 floors high. There have been many changes to the availability of fashion. The more malls there are, the easier it is to access the clothing.
"In the fast-paced world of 1990, what goes around comes around- only more quickly. Now it doesn't take centuries for a style to make a comeback- just the next generation. The '60s fashions made a comeback in the early '90s." (Schnurnberger, 413) It seems as though every fashion listed so far, has been replicated in the late nineties and the 21st century. Every year trends come straight from the runways of top designers, but again these trends are not new, they are simply repeated. Right now, the hippie style is re-emerging. Designers are using leather fringe, tie-dye, and small headbands across the forehead. Small braids in hair, and long flowing locks are also back in fashion. As well as peace signs in jewelry and on tee-shirts. The peace offering in fashion may be due to the war, along with the military styles of coats and army camouflage.
In 1996, we see for the first time, people other than gay men and sailors getting multiple ear piercing and even body piercing. This came form pop culture. Members of the boy band "'Nsync" had earrings which began a trend for teen boys to get their ears pierced.
"High waisted dresses from the early 1900's have made their way back. Today they are still being worn in different colors, prints and designs. Skinny jeans and flared jeans are both being worn at this time... Today, almost every fashion era seems to have had made its way back to the 21st century." (Suuya) Various parts of the country have their own trends home to that area and every part of the country also is divided with people wearing all types of clothing.
"The notion of fashion as frivolous also indexes a particular positioning vis-a-vis "the masses": Fashion is suspect because convention associates it with consumption not production, peace not war, women not men, pleasure not pain, aesthetics not politics, embodied subjects marked by and constituted through gender, race, class, culture, and history." (Kondo, 106) Fashion may be a consumption, due to the fact that "teenagers spent an average of $25.96 each trip to the mall" in 1991. (Schnurnberger, 400) That figure is probably even higher in today's market. It is often associated with peace, as demonstrated by hippie fashion, and wearing military garments to show support for our country. In many families, the mother is still the one who does all the shopping for the household.
What a person is wearing can tell you a lot about them. "On the level of fashion and the individual subject, Carolyn Steedman makes a related point in her Landscape for a Good Woman, when she writes of her mother's desire for a Dior New Look dress, a "proper envy" of the upper classes that constituted a political critique of class structure. (Kondo, 106) If they try to fit in they may just like to fly under the radar and wear what is socially acceptable. Other people may dress differently to make themselves stand out in a positive or negative way. It says a lot about social status by the brand name or the fabrics your garments are created out of. It defines a person by race and gender or if they are crossing that line.
"Clothing fashion is more like a cycle. It is constantly changing. What may in style this year may not be in style next year. However, it could be back in style 5 years later." (Suuya) What is in fashion may depend on politics and government. It may also depend on what is popular in the media, such as influence by the fashions of a celebrity. It may also be decided upon by a group of people who start a trend that catches onto the masses. Fashion is always changing but very few trends are new, they simply dwindle for a time and come back. “Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.”(Wilde)
Works Cited:
Gardner, Kirsten E. Hiding the Scars: History of Breast Prostheses After Mastectomy Since 1945. Beauty and Business Commerce, Gender, and Culture in Modern America. New York: Routledge, 2000. 313+.
Holdt, David. "Various." RPW 111. University of Hartford, West Hartford. 2009.
Kondo, Dorinne. About Face. New York: Routledge, 1997.
Legally Blonde 2. Dir. Charles Herman-Wurmfeld. Perf. Reese Witherspoon. DVD. Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, 2003.
Schnurnberger, Lynn. Let There Be Clothes. New York: Workman, 1991.
Shirley. "20th Century Fashion Fads". Utah Education Network. April 2009 < http://www.uen.org/utahlink/tours/tourFames.cgi?tour_id=13227)>.
Suuya, Mutinta. "Hat makes the 21st Century Fashion Sophisticated?" Navigator (2008). Navigator. Lake Land College, Mattoon, IL. Apr. 2009 <http://media.www.navigatornews.org/media/storage/paper567/news/2008/09/01/Opinion/What-Makes.The.>.
Walker, Susannah. "Black is Profitable: the Commodification of the Afro, 1960-1975." Beauty and Business Commerce, Gender, and Culture in Modern America. New York: Routledge, 2000. 255.
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